I often come across posts from people singing the praises of their DR650's and it always invokes bad memories for me. You see, I too had a DR650 not too long ago...but unlike these people, I did NOT have a pleasant experience with mine.
But rather than explain it, I thought I should just do a write-up about it whereon I could refer folks to it, and not have to go through the process each time. So here is my story....
My foray into the dualsport world started with a '74 CT90. I bought it because it was a familiar model and since I was a bit of a hiker at the time, I was able to use it to reach trailheads in the area, as most required an off-road vehicle and I didn't relish the thought of beating up my truck (which was also the tow vehicle for our family's trailers during camping season) each weekend. The CT sufficed for this purpose but soon enough I was thirsting for more power, so I purchased a TW200 as a supplemental vehicle.
A couple of years later, I got the idea that MUCH bigger would be even better, since hiking was becoming less important than riding...so after much research I decided to buy a Suzuki DR650. My research revealed that this model had its flaws but "with a bit of work" could be as reliable as any other model, at almost half the cost. So I purchased a 2010 model off the showroom floor with 00004 km's on the clock.
Within the first week, this issues started to reveal themselves; SURGING was the first problem and although there were lots of online fixes, I decided to let the dealer fix it since it was still under warranty. Their fix was to remove the brass plug and adjust the mixture.
As time went on, some more documented issues surfaced. Here is a list of most of the KNOWN issues, as well as the ones I encountered and how I dealt with each. Some of these were relatively minor, but (in my opinion) says a lot about the mindset of Suzuki. How can you, in good conscience, allow these design flaws to continue without addressing them in an expeditious manner? Some of these can produce dangerous situations for the rider....
1. Absolutely no skid plate or engine protection:
This one jumped out like a sore thumb....from the factory, the engine is completely exposed; zero protection on bottom or sides. Shifters have been known to bend and punch holes in casings, yet Suzuki has done nothing to mitigate this.
I fitted a Moose skid plate and case armour...about $400 taxes and shipping included.
2. Low speed surging:
These engines come set up to meet certain emission standards and as such are extremely lean from the factory. This results in surging at various speeds. Although the "fix" can be relatively simple (carb/jet kit) the BST-40 carb that comes stock has its share of problems:
a) Notoriously lean. As noted, these carbs are setup at the factory to meet emission standards. In order to eliminate the lean issue, you must remove the brass plug covering the mixture screw and adjust it accordingly. Although this can be accomplished as is, many owners find it necessary to purchase an extended mixture screw, to prevent burnt fingers. This lean-surge was reduced somewhat by installing a jet-kit for about $100 USD.
b) Float seat. This one happened to me on a ride to Sumas one day. Apparently, this is a known issue that has never been addressed by the engineers at Suzuki. One day...the O-ring on the float seat seal will decide to leak. When this happens, the float valve becomes irrelevant and the carb bowl will overfill...until your airbox is full of gasoline. If not caught soon enough (say when parked overnight, with the fuel valve left ON) the fuel will continue to overfill the airbox and into the cylinder head...past the rings and into the crankcase. In my case, it happened as I was driving and the bike stalled at a STOP sign. When it wouldn't restart, I checked the usual suspects...I found the airbox filling with gasoline.
This is why it is imperative to check the oil level on the DR650 before starting it. If your oil level somehow increased overnight...chances are, your crankcase is full of fuel. Do NOT try starting it.
c) Vacuum operated petcock: Although this isn't really carb-related, it bears mentioning. The DR650 comes stock with a vacuum operated petcock. This is for the lazy folk who forget to turn OFF their fuel valves when parked (see above). When starting or running, the engine vacuum operates a diaphragm that opens the petcock to allow fuel-flow to the carburetor. The problem with this is obvious...how do you diagnose a fuel delivery problem on an engine with a vacuum-operated fuel valve? How do I determine that the petcock is functional in delivering fuel to the carb, if I can't start the engine? I replaced this with a manual petcock...since I am used to turning it ON and OFF as required. Cost about $20 USD.
d) Surging at cruising speed: This was another weird effect I noted with the stock carb. The vent filter is located in the same airstream as intake air to the carb, such that if driving at 90 degrees to a headwind, cavitation in the air supply will occur and cause surging. It was an odd sensation to behold, for sure...I couldn't figure out what the problem was until other online owners shared their discovery. Fixing this requires relocating the vent filter.
These issues aside, most owners eventually give up trying to make the stock carb work properly with jet kits or retro-fits, and end up buying a TM40 pumper carb instead. This was another $400 USD investment that I wasn't ready for, but once I did...it made a world of difference to how the bike performed. Why it isn't fitted with one of these at the factory, is a mystery. It is a relatively minor cost at the production level, but transforms the bike COMPLETELY.
3. Output shaft seal:
These are renowned for blowing out and tossing most of the engine oil in the process. When this happens, it covers your foot in scalding oil and coats the rear wheel in the process. This can be deadly if it happens on the highway.
The fix is to purchase an aftermarket seal retainer...Suzuki has their own version as well...instead of fixing the problem. Aftermarket model cost about $20 USD
4. Neutral Sending Unit (NSU):
This is probably the most blatant issue to come UN-addressed from the factory. The NSU is internal and held in place by two screws. The NSU body is plastic which will expand and contract during normal engine heat cycles. Over time, the retaining screws can come loose and may fall into the engine. I shouldn't have to explain why it is BAD for screws to come loose inside a running engine. The fix is to remove the engine case and the clutch basket (in order to access the screws) and loc-tite or tie-wire (or BOTH as I did) the screws into place so that they don't fall out. Apparently this has been an issue for over 15 years and Suzuki did nothing to remediate until 2015 or so.
I checked mine and one screw was loose after only 11000 km. Absolutely unforgivable to allow this issue to persist for as long as it did.
Cost: $15 USD for a new gasket, plus about 4 hours of labour.
5. Engine case gasket:
This one is related to the NSU fix you'll need to do. Right side engine case; the gasket is permanently bonded to the case...anyone who has done this job will tell you the same thing: Be prepared to spend a good deal of time removing all traces of the gasket. The chances of it coming off in one piece are slim-to-none, so you will be at it for a while with either chemicals or razor-blades or both.
6. Primary reduction gear crank nut:
While you're in there scraping gasket and fixing the NSU...you might as well check the torque on the Primary gear retaining nut as these also have developed a habit of working themselves loose after a few miles. If you find that it is loose, you'd better check the retaining key as well since it may need to be replaced. Use some thread-locker when re-torquing this nut with the LEFT HAND thread.
Done while repairing NSU issue.
7. Upper chain roller:
This is one of those things that make you go "Huh?" Suzuki installed this roller so that when the rear suspension is under compression, the chain has a tendency to rip out the roller...usually taking a chunk of the frame with it in the process. The geometry between the front and rear sprockets is such, that the roller actually becomes an obstacle for the chain, when the swingarm is under compression. The more compression, the worse the angle. Eventually. the mount cannot withstand the torque, so at best, the roller is "removed" or at worst, a piece of the frame comes with it. There are NO issues created by removing the roller...why it was installed in that particular location is another Suzuki mystery...why it was never addressed is becoming tiresome.
No cost associated, other than labour. Removed roller and installed a set screw into the hole with some blue Loc-tite.
While we're on the subject of chain rollers...make sure to replace the LOWER one with a ball-bearing type. The stock one is a horrendously cheap, bushing-style.
8. Interlock switches:
These can be an issue on many other makes/models, but on the DR650, they seem to be the norm instead of the exception. Most owners simply bypass the sidestand and clutch switches. Doing so removes a known-issue, when trying to troubleshoot.
No cost...labour only.
9. Header weld:
Not a really big deal, unless you're modding to extract ever single ounce of horsepower available, but it speaks to the quality-control issues at Suzuki. From the factory, the inside of the exhaust header typically has a big gob of welded material, constricting exhaust flow. Some are huge blobs, others not so bad...seems to be a crap shoot.
Not addressed by me.
10. Dry steering head bearings.
Again, not a really huge deal but once again speaks to the quality control. Apparently, grease is a luxury at the Suzuki factories...
11. 3rd Gear issue:
This one should probably have been listed at #1 instead of here, but this makes sure that you're still reading...
Another "known issue" albeit it a rare one...until it happens to you. Mostly between 1999 and 2009 (took TEN YEARS to address?) 3rd gear tends to disintegrate, grenading the entire engine in the process. Because of the design of the transmission, 3rd gear is always under load and this may or may not lead to early wear.
In my case, mine spit out a piece of a circlip during an oil change. I was told by others that it was likely the retaining clip for 3rd gear which leads me to believe (unproven theory) that maybe it is this clip that disintegrates, allowing third gear to clash into the others while driving...
It's not the most reassuring feeling, to be riding your bike miles deep into the back-country, wondering if today is the day that 3rd gear will decide to self-destruct.
12. Wire harness chafing:
Self explanatory; sharp corners on the steering column can chafe and abrade the wiring harness along the right side. Extra protection is required...after taking possession of course.
13. Starter-clutch torque limiter:
If you own a '98 or '99 model year, be advised that the starter reduction gear set was equipped with a SOLID idler gear. Not a big deal under normal conditions, but IF your bike kicks back during shutdown, there is a good chance that the bearing bosses for that gear will be broken, destroying the left-side engine case as well. Fortunately, it only took Suzuki 2 years to address this problem.
14. Cush drive bearing:
This is something that requires your attention at all times. As the cush-rubbers wear, they permit more lateral movement of the bearing carrier. Apparently, the amount of wear between OK and CATASTROPHIC FAILURE can be quite slim. If the bearing carrier is damaged, the entire rear wheel must be replaced...so this is an important maintenance item!
Cush rubbers are fairly expensive (about $45 USD/set)...I had installed 3 sets during its lifetime.
15. The most uncomfortable seat on the planet:
No joke...this thing is like sitting on a 2x4...turned on edge. I installed a Seat Concepts foam in an attempt to rectify this, but the results were minimally outstanding...
Cost was around $130 USD.
16. Small fuel tank:
The DR650 comes stock with a 2.9 USG gas tank. At roughly 45-50 mpg, this equates to about 145 miles (at best). Most owners opt to replace the stocker with an aftermarket IMS or Acerbis.
I fitted a 4.9 IMS to mine and it increased the range to the point where I was comfortable taking off for the day with a full tank.
17. Pulse coil:
This INTERNAL part sends an electrical pulse to the CDI to tell it when to fire the spark plug...so it is critical to engine performance.
Had to replace mine at around the 11,000km mark. This required removing the left-side case (and losing the oil)...about 2½ hr job and about $ 80 USD for the part.
In my case, as mentioned earlier...I discovered a piece of a retaining circlip stuck to the magnetic drain plug during an oil change with LESS THAN 20,000 miles on the bike.
After many forum-queries, I was told that it was likely a piece of the clip that holds third gear in place on the transmission shaft. Since I didn't have the space, the tools or the confidence to split cases...I was quoted around $1500 to replace this clip, from a shop in Vancouver that came highly recommended. This price was based on me delivering the engine only to their shop. I didn't think it was worth the investment on a 10 year old bike that was only worth about $4000 at the time...so in the end, I sold it as is to a local fellow who was going to rebuild it.
This occurred despite my efforts to correct every factory flaw on this model....despite using nothing but the best in terms of parts and lubricants...despite total devotion to maintenance...less than 20,000 miles and this bike needed major work.
Since it was so expensive to insure, I only had it "on the road" for about six months of the year and I owned it for almost a decade. Aside from the cost of the maintenance items, I also installed a 4.9 gallon IMS fuel tank...rear rack...stiffer shock spring...in total I spent about $3000 USD on aftermarket mod's to this model.
I knew what I was getting into when I bought the bike, but I expected more than 20,000 miles from a brand new model. In hindsight, I wish I had spent a bit more on a Honda...which I would probably still be riding.
Because of this experience...I will NEVER own another Suzuki motorcycle.
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