Major catastrophe...

 It would be very remiss of me if I were not to mention anything about the destruction and devastation that has occurred in this little corner of the world...even though I try to keep this "blog" focused on the bike(s) and the ride(s). 
These most recent events however are too important to ignore...too significant not to mention.

Over the weekend of the 13th and 14th of November, the Lower Mainland (SW corner of BC) experienced what they call an "atmospheric river"....basically a river's worth of water, flying through the sky along the jet-stream. This "river" dumped the equivalent of a month's rain in 48 hours. 
The area to my southwest, was once a giant, shallow lake and over 100 years ago, the thinking-men of the day decided to drain the lake and use the resulting land for agriculture. This was accomplished by building a Pump Station near the Fraser River and pumping the lake dry. 
For over 100 years, this has worked out fine. When the rains come and the numerous creeks and tributaries rise, the main drainage canal routes this water to the pumping station, that either pumps the water away, or opens its floodgates to drain the land.
Back in 1990, we got a taste of trouble when the Nooksack river in Washington state, overflowed its banks and the contours of the land directed the overflow into our side of the border. Several hundred acres were inundated, but damage was minimal and the waters receded fairly quickly.

With a month's worth of rain falling over a single weekend, the drainage ditches and assorted creeks were overcome. Once again, the Nooksack overflowed its limits and flooded our plains. The Sumas river did its best to contain the onslaught, but the word came that the pumping station was expected to fail sometime Sunday night, as the rising water would eventually enter the station whereon the pumps would have to be shut down. From there, the entire Sumas prairie...from Vedder mountain to Sumas mountain...would be at the mercy of the deluge. Homes in Yarrow and Greendale could be under 10 feet of water before the water found its peak. 
In an amazing show of solidarity and community, over 300 volunteers arrived at the pumping station, and with the help of 2 automated sand-bag machines, were able to construct an emergency dike that held the water at bay...the pump station would survive!
Meanwhile, 4 ½ kms southwest of the pumping station, the Sumas river overpowered the dike and breached it. Now, there was nothing to hold the water back from the ancient lake bed, and it began to fill.

This is a very condensed version of the events as they unfolded, I don't have the time or patience to list every associated disaster that went along with a major flood...there are too many to list. 
It should also be noted that EVERY highway into the area suffered similar catastrophes and to this day, several of them are still impassable and will remain that way for weeks or even months. Highway #1 between Chilliwack and Hope fell victim to several MASSIVE slides. The #5 from Hope to Merritt in the Interior lost 5 bridges and over 20 km of road. #8 highway between Spence's Bridge and Merritt has been virtually wiped off the map...too many to list.

If you want to know more or read more about it...I'm sure you can find many stories via Google or on YouTube.
It's going to be a while before things return to "normal" around here. Although we avoided any immediate danger or damage, the infrastructure that serves us all has been damaged...

The tale of my DR650

 I often come across posts from people singing the praises of their DR650's and it always invokes bad memories for me. You see, I too had a DR650 not too long ago...but unlike these people, I did NOT have a pleasant experience with mine.
But rather than explain it, I thought I should just do a write-up about it whereon I could refer folks to it, and not have to go through the process each time. So here is my story....

My foray into the dualsport world started with a '74 CT90. I bought it because it was a familiar model and since I was a bit of a hiker at the time, I was able to use it to reach trailheads in the area, as most required an off-road vehicle and I didn't relish the thought of beating up my truck (which was also the tow vehicle for our family's trailers during camping season) each weekend. The CT sufficed for this purpose but soon enough I was thirsting for more power, so I purchased a TW200 as a supplemental vehicle.
A couple of years later, I got the idea that MUCH bigger would be even better, since hiking was becoming less important than riding...so after much research I decided to buy a Suzuki DR650. My research revealed that this model had its flaws but "with a bit of work" could be as reliable as any other model, at almost half the cost. So I purchased a 2010 model off the showroom floor with 00004 km's on the clock.

Within the first week, this issues started to reveal themselves; SURGING was the first problem and although there were lots of online fixes, I decided to let the dealer fix it since it was still under warranty. Their fix was to remove the brass plug and adjust the mixture.
As time went on, some more documented issues surfaced. Here is a list of most of the KNOWN issues, as well as the ones I encountered and how I dealt with each. Some of these were relatively minor, but (in my opinion) says a lot about the mindset of Suzuki. How can you, in good conscience, allow these design flaws to continue without addressing them in an expeditious manner? Some of these can produce dangerous situations for the rider....

1. Absolutely no skid plate or engine protection:
This one jumped out like a sore thumb....from the factory, the engine is completely exposed; zero protection on bottom or sides. Shifters have been known to bend and punch holes in casings, yet Suzuki has done nothing to mitigate this. 
I fitted a Moose skid plate and case armour...about $400 taxes and shipping included.

2. Low speed surging:
These engines come set up to meet certain emission standards and as such are extremely lean from the factory. This results in surging at various speeds. Although the "fix" can be relatively simple (carb/jet kit) the BST-40 carb that comes stock has its share of problems:
    a) Notoriously lean. As noted, these carbs are setup at the factory to meet emission standards. In order to eliminate the lean issue, you must remove the brass plug covering the mixture screw and adjust it accordingly. Although this can be accomplished as is, many owners find it necessary to purchase an extended mixture screw, to prevent burnt fingers. This lean-surge was reduced somewhat by installing a jet-kit for about $100 USD.
    b) Float seat. This one happened to me on a ride to Sumas one day. Apparently, this is a known issue that has never been addressed by the engineers at Suzuki.  One day...the O-ring on the float seat seal will decide to leak. When this happens, the float valve becomes irrelevant and the carb bowl will overfill...until your airbox is full of gasoline. If not caught soon enough (say when parked overnight, with the fuel valve left ON) the fuel will continue to overfill the airbox and into the cylinder head...past the rings and into the crankcase. In my case, it happened as I was driving and the bike stalled at a STOP sign. When it wouldn't restart, I checked the usual suspects...I found the airbox filling with gasoline.
This is why it is imperative to check the oil level on the DR650 before starting it. If your oil level somehow increased overnight...chances are, your crankcase is full of fuel. Do NOT try starting it.
    c) Vacuum operated petcock: Although this isn't really carb-related, it bears mentioning. The DR650 comes stock with a vacuum operated petcock. This is for the lazy folk who forget to turn OFF their fuel valves when parked (see above). When starting or running, the engine vacuum operates a diaphragm that opens the petcock to allow fuel-flow to the carburetor. The problem with this is obvious...how do you diagnose a fuel delivery problem on an engine with a vacuum-operated fuel valve? How do I determine that the petcock is functional in delivering fuel to the carb, if I can't start the engine? I replaced this with a manual petcock...since I am used to turning it ON and OFF as required. Cost about $20 USD.
    d) Surging at cruising speed: This was another weird effect I noted with the stock carb. The vent filter is located in the same airstream as intake air to the carb, such that if driving at 90 degrees to a headwind, cavitation in the air supply will occur and cause surging. It was an odd sensation to behold, for sure...I couldn't figure out what the problem was until other online owners shared their discovery. Fixing this requires relocating the vent filter.
These issues aside, most owners eventually give up trying to make the stock carb work properly with jet kits or retro-fits, and end up buying a TM40 pumper carb instead. This was another $400 USD investment that I wasn't ready for, but once I did...it made a world of difference to how the bike performed. Why it isn't fitted with one of these at the factory, is a mystery. It is a relatively minor cost at the production level, but transforms the bike COMPLETELY.

3. Output shaft seal:
These are renowned for blowing out and tossing most of the engine oil in the process. When this happens, it covers your foot in scalding oil and coats the rear wheel in the process. This can be deadly if it happens on the highway.
The fix is to purchase an aftermarket seal retainer...Suzuki has their own version as well...instead of fixing the problem. Aftermarket model cost about $20 USD

4. Neutral Sending Unit (NSU):
This is probably the most blatant issue to come UN-addressed from the factory. The NSU is internal and held in place by two screws. The NSU body is plastic which will expand and contract during normal engine heat cycles. Over time, the retaining screws can come loose and may fall into the engine. I shouldn't have to explain why it is BAD for screws to come loose inside a running engine. The fix is to remove the engine case and the clutch basket (in order to access the screws) and loc-tite or tie-wire (or BOTH as I did) the screws into place so that they don't fall out. Apparently this has been an issue for over 15 years and Suzuki did nothing to remediate until 2015 or so. 
I checked mine and one screw was loose after only 11000 km. Absolutely unforgivable to allow this issue to persist for as long as it did.
Cost: $15 USD for a new gasket, plus about 4 hours of labour.

5. Engine case gasket: 
This one is related to the NSU fix you'll need to do. Right side engine case; the gasket is permanently bonded to the case...anyone who has done this job will tell you the same thing: Be prepared to spend a good deal of time removing all traces of the gasket. The chances of it coming off in one piece are slim-to-none, so you will be at it for a while with either chemicals or razor-blades or both.

6. Primary reduction gear crank nut:
While you're in there scraping gasket and fixing the NSU...you might as well check the torque on the Primary gear retaining nut as these also have developed a habit of working themselves loose after a few miles. If you find that it is loose, you'd better check the retaining key as well since it may need to be replaced. Use some thread-locker when re-torquing this nut with the LEFT HAND thread.
Done while repairing NSU issue.

7. Upper chain roller:
This is one of those things that make you go "Huh?" Suzuki installed this roller so that when the rear suspension is under compression, the chain has a tendency to rip out the roller...usually taking a chunk of the frame with it in the process. The geometry between the front and rear sprockets is such, that the roller actually becomes an obstacle for the chain, when the swingarm is under compression. The more compression, the worse the angle. Eventually. the mount cannot withstand the torque, so at best, the roller is "removed" or at worst, a piece of the frame comes with it. There are NO issues created by removing the roller...why it was installed in that particular location is another Suzuki mystery...why it was never addressed is becoming tiresome.
No cost associated, other than labour. Removed roller and installed a set screw into the hole with some blue Loc-tite.
While we're on the subject of chain rollers...make sure to replace the LOWER one with a ball-bearing type. The stock one is a horrendously cheap, bushing-style.

8. Interlock switches:
These can be an issue on many other makes/models, but on the DR650, they seem to be the norm instead of the exception. Most owners simply bypass the sidestand and clutch switches. Doing so removes a known-issue, when trying to troubleshoot.
No cost...labour only.

9. Header weld:
Not a really big deal, unless you're modding to extract ever single ounce of horsepower available, but it speaks to the quality-control issues at Suzuki. From the factory, the inside of the exhaust header typically has a big gob of welded material, constricting exhaust flow. Some are huge blobs, others not so bad...seems to be a crap shoot.
Not addressed by me.

10. Dry steering head bearings.
Again, not a really huge deal but once again speaks to the quality control. Apparently, grease is a luxury at the Suzuki factories...

11. 3rd Gear issue:
This one should probably have been listed at #1 instead of here, but this makes sure that you're still reading...
Another "known issue" albeit it a rare one...until it happens to you. Mostly between 1999 and 2009 (took TEN YEARS to address?) 3rd gear tends to disintegrate, grenading the entire engine in the process. Because of the design of the transmission, 3rd gear is always under load and this may or may not lead to early wear. 
In my case, mine spit out a piece of a circlip during an oil change. I was told by others that it was likely the retaining clip for 3rd gear which leads me to believe (unproven theory) that maybe it is this clip that disintegrates, allowing third gear to clash into the others while driving...
It's not the most reassuring feeling, to be riding your bike miles deep into the back-country, wondering if today is the day that 3rd gear will decide to self-destruct.

12. Wire harness chafing:
Self explanatory; sharp corners on the steering column can chafe and abrade the wiring harness along the right side. Extra protection is required...after taking possession of course.

13. Starter-clutch torque limiter:
If you own a '98 or '99 model year, be advised that the starter reduction gear set was equipped with a SOLID idler gear. Not a big deal under normal conditions, but IF your bike kicks back during shutdown, there is a good chance that the bearing bosses for that gear will be broken, destroying the left-side engine case as well. Fortunately, it only took Suzuki 2 years to address this problem.

14. Cush drive bearing:
This is something that requires your attention at all times. As the cush-rubbers wear, they permit more lateral movement of the bearing carrier. Apparently, the amount of wear between OK and CATASTROPHIC FAILURE can be quite slim. If the bearing carrier is damaged, the entire rear wheel must be replaced...so this is an important maintenance item!
Cush rubbers are fairly expensive (about $45 USD/set)...I had installed 3 sets during its lifetime.

15. The most uncomfortable seat on the planet:
No joke...this thing is like sitting on a 2x4...turned on edge. I installed a Seat Concepts foam in an attempt to rectify this, but the results were minimally outstanding...
Cost was around $130 USD.

16. Small fuel tank:
The DR650 comes stock with a 2.9 USG gas tank. At roughly 45-50 mpg, this equates to about 145 miles (at best). Most owners opt to replace the stocker with an aftermarket IMS or Acerbis.
I fitted a 4.9 IMS to mine and it increased the range to the point where I was comfortable taking off for the day with a full tank.

17. Pulse coil:
This INTERNAL part sends an electrical pulse to the CDI to tell it when to fire the spark plug...so it is critical to engine performance.
Had to replace mine at around the 11,000km mark. This required removing the left-side case (and losing the oil)...about 2½ hr job and about $ 80 USD for the part.

*   *   *   *

In my case, as mentioned earlier...I discovered a piece of a retaining circlip stuck to the magnetic drain plug during an oil change with LESS THAN 20,000 miles on the bike. 

After many forum-queries, I was told that it was likely a piece of the clip that holds third gear in place on the transmission shaft. Since I didn't have the space, the tools or the confidence to split cases...I was quoted around $1500 to replace this clip, from a shop in Vancouver that came highly recommended. This price was based on me delivering the engine only to their shop. I didn't think it was worth the investment on a 10 year old bike that was only worth about $4000 at the time...so in the end, I sold it as is to a local fellow who was going to rebuild it.

This occurred despite my efforts to correct every factory flaw on this model....despite using nothing but the best in terms of parts and lubricants...despite total devotion to maintenance...less than 20,000 miles and this bike needed major work.
Since it was so expensive to insure, I only had it "on the road" for about six months of the year and I owned it for almost a decade. Aside from the cost of the maintenance items, I also installed a 4.9 gallon IMS fuel tank...rear rack...stiffer shock spring...in total I spent about $3000 USD on aftermarket mod's to this model.
I knew what I was getting into when I bought the bike, but I expected more than 20,000 miles from a brand new model. In hindsight, I wish I had spent a bit more on a Honda...which I would probably still be riding.

Because of this experience...I will NEVER own another Suzuki motorcycle.

Aaarrrrrgggghhhhh........not quite

 Apparently, if you over-tighten the two carb-body screws....it will deform the body enough that the float will stick. Who'd a thunk it?

After fiddling with this new carb for the better part of a day....this is the discovery I made. Didn't seem to matter where I set the float level, the carb would still overfill and dribble onto the ground. It was while I was rebuilding the fuel valve, that this came to light.

With this revelation, I was able to re-assemble the carb and have the float working as it should....and after remounting it for the nth time, she started easily enough and purred like a kitten.....until I started putting her through her paces.
After a few bouts of revving up and down...she started losing idle speed, then almost stalled. I was able to recover, but then she didn't run as well as she did a few minutes ago. Trying to adjust the air-bleed screw was minimally successful; I can remove it completely with no effect on the engine...but I can't screw it in further than 1 ½ turns to fully seated - don't know if that's normal.

A brief test-drive showed that she was full of spunk and had no issues with acceleration, coasting or idling afterwards, which makes things even more puzzling.

Maybe there are other issues at play here and I need to look BEYOND the air-fuel circuit....

Almost there....

 WinCycle carb arrived today....11 days ahead of forecasted delivery-date, so that's always a good thing!

Couldn't hold my enthusiasm in....had to install it when I got home from work. With DST in full effect now, it's dark by 5:00, but I didn't think I'd have any issues.

Siphoned the existing gas from the tank...and while this was going on, I thought I'd dismantle this new toy and blow some air through all the passages, to make sure they are clear.
Checked the float level...seemed a bit high, but since this carb was "shipped ready to install"...I just assumed that this was the proper level.
The carb itself is head and shoulders above anything I've received so far, from Amazon or eBay...it definitely has some "body" to it and joy of joys, the overflow even vents out of the BACK instead of the bottom....one less thing I have to do!
The choke has the proper orientation and it even has a HIGH ALTITUDE knob!

I also checked the slide movement...when I open the throttle, the slide opens up COMPLETELY...so that's another thing I don't need to worry about.

Connected fuel lines....bolts snugged....snorkel connected....we're ready to try this out!

I had backed out the idle adjustment a bit, since it looked as though it was close to bottoming. Choke on...kick.,,,,kick....kick.....kick - sputter!
Kick.....sputter....sputter....idling.....slowly, but still what I would call "idling".
Adjust idle speed a bit....still idling.

Next thing I know, she starts to sputter as if she's about to die....and there's fuel pouring out of the overflow hose.
Damn....guess the float level was too high after all.

By now, it's dark and I don't want to play anymore...this Thursday is a stat holiday, so I can play with it some more at that time.
From what I could tell, in the brief time that it ran....the throttle response is MUCH BETTER than before. She doesn't gag and die when throttle is cracked WO...even when still fairly "cold".
In addition to the extremely low-speed idle (when first started) without threat of coughing and stalling...I'm thinking (hoping) that this might be the one.

Fingers crossed...................

Back into service...

Replaced the clutch basket on the CT this morning.
The part fit exactly as it should...I was careful to align to clutch springs into their bosses...clutch plates installed in correct order...gear turns only ONE way when assembled....done!
Before pouring in some AMSOIL synthetic, I figured I should test the clutch-action first. 

Got her up on the center stand...in neutral...rear wheel spins freely. Kick into 1st gear and hold shifter UP...rear wheel spins (albeit with some effort)...release shifter...wheel in gear...PERFECT!

Replaced the rest of the side-case bolts...foot-pegs...battery (on charge the whole time) installed...bit of gas into the tank...starts first kick! 
Check clutch action with running engine......works perfectly...another Hallelujah!

Now, I have another week or so before the new carb shows up.........she'll be ready to go in the Spring!

In Limbo....

 Last week I finally said "to heck with it" and ordered a new carb for the CT90, from WinCycles on eBay. The carbs they stock are touted as being far superior to the offshore models and even boast that standard jets will fit....Bonus!

The one I ordered calls itself an EXACT REPLACEMENT for my year of CT90, so we'll see how that plays out.

Looks pretty much the same as the last eBay offering, but with people gushing about WinCycle's quality...I guess it's worth a shot. Even the choke lever is running the right way!
It should be here (I opted for direct shipment, rather than waiting to cross the border) by Nov 19, and I will update at that time.

About a week or two before that, I ordered a new clutch basket from David Silver Spares in Hanover Pennsylvania. Their website showed the EXACT one I needed and the part number matched for my year!

The price was reasonable and every one I'd seen on eBay, was used and filthy, so once again I opted for direct shipment.
After waiting a couple of weeks, the package showed up in my mailbox but as soon as I picked it up, I knew something wasn't right....it didn't feel "big enough" to be the part I was looking for....

Sure enough....I was sent the wrong part....even though the correct part number was written on it...this is NOT what I needed or ordered.

Not even close....I immediately e-mailed their Customer Service department and sent them several photos.
They apologized and promised to send the right one, the following day.

A few days later, I e-mailed them again, asking for a tracking number and was told that it was leaving the warehouse today and that I would receive a tracking number within a day or two.

That was 6 days ago and I still haven't heard anything or seen a tracking number. 
I e-mailed them again today asking for some feedback but have received no reply yet....

EDIT: The correct part arrived today (Nov 05/21). For some reason, USPS never sent the tracking number to me. The fellow gave me the number and I was able to locate it through the USPS site. When I got home on Friday, the package was waiting for me. 
Opened it immediately and sure enough....it's the right part this time!

Shout out to David Silver Spares in Hanover, Pennsylvania! Awesome customer service....

Nahatlatch expedition

 Took a trip to the Nahatlatch area on Hallowe'en day, under a blue sky and full sun. Although it was a bit chilly, it was worth it.
Read about it HERE.