...and AGAIN with the CT90.

 I swear this thing is cursed....

Something has happened...but I don't know what. All of a sudden, I can't start this thing anymore. I kick and I kick and I kick, and she will sputter briefly, but fails to start. Once she is running, she runs like a top but if she stalls or is shut off...it's a real pain trying to get it started again.

I swapped the WinCycle carb for one of the eBay or Amazon offerings. The first one wouldn't run properly either, but after installing the third, it started on the second kick so I thought I was onto something...right up until I tried to give it some throttle. I barely twisted it and she sputters and stalls.
Then it's back to kicking and kicking and kicking..................

When she finally does start again, it's by sheer luck..throttle just in the right position and she just manages to catch the spark....away she goes and runs like a top again....you'd never know there was something wrong. But then as soon as there's a slight twist on the throttle...she's dead. If I can get her running and twist the throttle ever so slowly....she will rev until it scares me. But if I give her some heavy throttle and hold it full open...she will rev to about 50000 rpm and then cough and sputter...never reaching higher revs.

Someone suggested that my rectifier was toast, so I pulled that out and sure enough...the connections were a bit corroded, but I cleaned them up to shiny metal as well as tested the rectifier as per instructions...nothing wrong with it.
Started her up again and the same problems persist.

Cleaned and re-gapped the points...no change.
Moved needle clip down one position...no change
Adjusted air screw....no change.

Basically, it's at the point where NOTHING I do has any effect...and this is starting to wear on my nerves. I took it for another 12 mile run the other night and she ran fine the whole time, but when I got home....turned her off and tried to re-start...same issues.

I've tested the ignition circuit and everything is working....I should probably replace the spark plug...and that will be the next item on my list.
I will also readjust the valves as everyone says that tight valves will cause starting problems.

I'm getting tired of this.

Follow-up

After letting it rest a day or two...I followed the procedure as laid out in THIS BLOG. 
Within an hour or so, I had gone through all the steps. In the process, I discovered a breaking/broken wire in the ignition circuit. 

Once I had fixed that...she started on the FIRST kick (with a bit of choke) while wearing the $30 Amazon carb...not the WinCycles version.

I let her run for a few minutes....testing the throttle response every now and then...it was great, no more bogging AT ALL.
Shut her down...then tried re-starting...FIRST kick again!
After she came up to temperature, I shut her down for the evening and when I went to start her the next morning...FIRST KICK again.

Looks like I got it.

I still need to replace the spark plug and I should probably do something about the spark-plug lead and the boot too.
Great to know that she will run like that ol' Swiss watch again....while using the cheap Amazon carb!

Harrison East experiment

 Beautiful day, for the most part...so we took a trip up Harrison East FSR again. There are tourists aplenty, occupying any space they can find, along this route.
Read about the trip HERE.

CT90 issues again...

 Just when I thought I had it all worked out...
Took her CT90 out for a good workout the other day...it had been sitting for a while, and being idle is the worst thing for these, so I took it for a nice long ride; 17 miles to be precise.

About halfway through the ride, I noticed things weren't quite right...whenever I shifted into 1st from Neutral, the bike lunged a bit. I tested the clutch action and it was non-existent again...I thought I had addressed this a while ago!

Brought her home and dismantled it once again...which means draining the fuel, removing the battery, the footpegs, shifter and starter....and draining the oil. A quart of AMSOIL with less than 200 miles on it, seemed like a bit of a waste, but this is necessary in order to access the clutch.
Placed her on her side and went at it....in a few minutes, I had the side cover off and removed the retainer nut with that special socket you need to buy:

Once out of the engine, I have the clutch basket broken down and all pieces out. Check for obvious problems...verified the placement and order of all the clutch discs and re-assembled. 
Back together and re-installed into engine. A few minutes later, the bike is back together and ready to be tested.
Start her up and let her reach operating temp...kick into gear, but hold shifter up...give her some gas...rear wheel spins....damn!
That's enough for today......

The following morning, after much research, I decide to tear into it again, but this time I am going to de-glaze the friction discs and measure everything with a vernier caliper. Sure enough....everything is to spec, so I re-assemble and re-install.....with the same results as before.....damn!

After venting my frustrations on the Facebook CT90 page, I got some feedback from a fellow name Mike, regarding the adjustment as depicted in the owner's manual.
He suggested that, with the engine running...I turn the adjustment screw CCW, as they mention but once I encounter resistance, to continue turning it outward, as if to activate the clutch.
Next morning, I start her up again and wait for her to warm up, then I tried his suggestion...loosen locknut...turn screw until resistance is felt, then continue past. At first, it sounds like the clutch is being disengaged when something inside POPS and suddenly, I have no resistance. 
I continue to loosen the screw until I eventually encounter resistance again....another full turn from where I was...and at this point, I follow the adjustment procedure from the manual.
Mike suggested that upon re-assembly, some of the parts are not properly 'mated' together, so if an adjustment is made until one first encounters resistance, this is just where the unmatched parts impinge upon each other. By continuing to turn the screw out...these parts are forced into alignment (while the engine runs) and a more accurate adjustment is achieved.
Once I did this, to my surprise, I have a properly functional clutch once again.

So...big shout out to Mike of the FB CT90 page for the help...you saved me AND my wife's bike....and now that it's working properly, I might try another 20 mile ride tonight!

Deadman Valley ride.

 Over the May 14th weekend, we explored the ravaged Deadman valley.
Read about it HERE....